Protein Treatment for Hair
Scientific Explanation:
Protein treatments for hair involve the application of products that contain proteins or amino acids. These treatments aim to fortify the hair shaft by replenishing the protein content that may have been lost due to various damaging factors like chemical treatments, heat styling, and environmental exposure. Keratin, a type of protein, is a major component of hair, providing strength and structure. Protein treatments work by filling in gaps and weak spots along the hair shaft, temporarily restoring its strength and integrity. The protein molecules adhere to the hair cuticle, forming a protective layer that helps reduce breakage and improve elasticity.
Hair Porosity and Protein Treatments
Low Porosity Hair:
Low porosity hair has a tightly packed cuticle layer, which makes it resistant to moisture and product absorption. Because the cuticle is tightly sealed, protein treatments can lead to protein overload, making the hair feel stiff and brittle. This occurs because the protein can't penetrate deeply into the hair shaft and instead builds up on the surface, creating a barrier that further reduces moisture absorption.
High to Normal Porosity Hair:
High porosity hair has gaps and holes in the cuticle, often due to damage or genetic factors, allowing moisture and products to be absorbed more readily. Protein treatments can be particularly beneficial for high porosity hair as the proteins can fill in the gaps and strengthen the hair structure. Normal porosity hair, which has a balanced cuticle layer, can also benefit from protein treatments to maintain its health and strength without the risk of protein overload.
Alternatives for Low Porosity Hair
Low porosity hair can benefit from bond-building treatments instead of traditional protein treatments. These treatments work on a molecular level to repair broken disulfide bonds within the hair shaft, which can occur due to chemical, thermal, or mechanical damage. Products like Olaplex or K18 use patented technology to reconnect these bonds, enhancing the hair's strength and elasticity without the risk of protein buildup. Bond-building treatments penetrate deeper into the hair shaft, making them more suitable for low porosity hair that struggles with product absorption.
- Protein treatments: are beneficial for reinforcing the hair structure by replenishing lost protein.
- Low porosity hair: should avoid protein treatments due to the risk of protein buildup and stiffness.
- High to normal porosity hair: can benefit from protein treatments to fill in gaps and strengthen the hair.
- Low porosity hair: can opt for bond-building treatments, which repair internal hair bonds without causing buildup.
Maintaining the right balance is crucial, and too much of either protein or moisture can indeed lead to hair issues. Let's clarify this further.
Understanding Protein and Moisture Balance
Hair Composition:
- Hair is primarily composed of keratin, a type of protein. This provides structure and strength to the hair shaft.
- The hair's ability to maintain optimal moisture levels contributes to its flexibility and health.
Protein Overload:
- Symptoms: Hair that has too much protein can become stiff, brittle, and prone to breakage. This is because excess protein can make the hair hard and less elastic.
- Causes: Overuse of protein treatments, especially on hair that does not need them, can lead to protein buildup. This is more likely to happen in low porosity hair, where the tightly bound cuticles prevent proteins from penetrating and instead cause them to accumulate on the surface.
Moisture Overload:
- Symptoms: Hair that has too much moisture, known as "hygral fatigue," can become overly soft, mushy, and weak, leading to increased breakage and split ends.
- Causes: Excessive use of moisturizing treatments or over-washing the hair can strip away natural oils and disrupt the balance.
Hair Porosity and Treatment Needs:
Low Porosity Hair:
- Characteristics: Tightly bound cuticle layers that resist absorption.
High Porosity Hair:
- Characteristics: Raised or damaged cuticle layers that easily absorb but also lose moisture and protein.
Alternatives and Balancing Approach:
Regular Assessment:
- Check Elasticity: Gently stretch a strand of hair. If it stretches and returns to its original length without breaking, it has a good balance. If it stretches too much and breaks, it needs protein.
2. Tailored Treatments:
- Protein Treatments: Use based on the hair's needs, especially if it has been chemically treated or exposed to high levels of environmental stress.
- Moisture Treatments: Essential for all hair types to maintain softness and flexibility but should be balanced with protein treatments as required.
3. Bond-Building Treatments for Low Porosity Hair:
- Olaplex and K18: These products repair disulfide bonds within the hair shaft, strengthening the hair from within without the risk of protein overload. This is beneficial for low porosity hair that might not absorb protein treatments effectively.
Understanding Protein Treatments
Primary Purpose:
- Protein treatments are designed to repair and strengthen hair that has been compromised by factors such as chemical processing, heat styling, or environmental damage.
When to Use Protein Treatments:
1. Damage Repair:
- Chemical Treatments: Hair that has been dyed, bleached, or chemically straightened often loses its natural protein structure, making it more prone to breakage.
- **Heat Damage**: Frequent use of heat styling tools can degrade the protein structure in hair.
- Environmental Factors: Sun exposure, pollution, and harsh weather can contribute to protein loss.
2. Signs of Need:
- Weak, Limp Hair: Hair that lacks volume and feels weak might benefit from a protein boost.
- Excessive Breakage: If your hair breaks easily, a protein treatment might help reinforce its structure.
Risks of Overusing Protein Treatments:
Protein Overload:
- Stiffness and Brittleness: Hair with too much protein can become rigid and break easily because it lacks the necessary elasticity.
- Damage to the Shaft: Excess protein can lead to an imbalance, causing the hair to become brittle and prone to further damage.
Watch my full lecture on OLAPLEX
Moisturizing Treatments:
- Hydration Focus: Regular moisturizing treatments help maintain hair elasticity and prevent breakage, ensuring hair stays soft and manageable.
ApHogee is a hair care brand known for its products that help strengthen and repair damaged hair. The most popular product from their line is the ApHogee Two-Step Protein Treatment, which is designed to restore seriously damaged hair.
Key Constituents
1. Hydrolyzed Proteins: These are proteins broken down into smaller peptides and amino acids, making it easier for the hair to absorb them. They help strengthen the hair shaft.
2. Magnesium and Modified Proteins: These bind to the hair structure, reinforcing its strength and elasticity.
3. Emollients and Humectants: Ingredients like panthenol and glycerin help moisturize the hair and prevent it from becoming too dry or brittle.
4. Vitamins and Nutrients: These help nourish the hair and scalp, promoting overall hair health.
How It Works
1. Application: The treatment is applied to clean, damp hair. The product's unique blend of proteins and other ingredients coats the hair.
2. Drying: The hair is dried under a hooded dryer or with a blow dryer. This step is crucial as it hardens the protein on the hair, which is where the "Two-Step" process gets its name.
3. Rinsing: After the hair has hardened, it is thoroughly rinsed out. The hardening process helps the protein bond to the hair shaft, reinforcing its structure.
4. Moisturizing: Following the protein treatment, a balancing moisturizer is applied to soften and smooth the hair. This step is essential to restore moisture and elasticity after the intense protein treatment.
Benefits in the Hair
- Strengthening: The hydrolyzed proteins penetrate the hair shaft, reinforcing its structure and reducing breakage.
- Repairing: The treatment helps repair damaged areas of the hair, filling in gaps and cracks in the hair cuticle.
- Elasticity: By improving the hair's strength and structure, it also enhances elasticity, making it less prone to snapping or breaking.
- Moisturizing: The follow-up balancing moisturizer ensures the hair remains hydrated and manageable, preventing the brittleness that can sometimes result from protein treatments.
Usage
ApHogee Two-Step Protein Treatment is typically recommended for use every 4-6 weeks, depending on the level of damage to the hair. It's important not to overuse protein treatments, as too much protein can lead to hair becoming stiff and prone to breakage.
In summary, ApHogee treatments, particularly the Two-Step Protein Treatment, work by reinforcing and repairing the hair shaft with proteins and other nourishing ingredients, resulting in stronger, healthier hair.
ApHogee Two-Step Protein Treatment is very potent and should be reserved for extreme cases of damage. Using it too frequently can lead to protein overload, making hair brittle. It’s best used for hair that has suffered from severe chemical processing, heat damage, or other forms of significant stress.
Key Points for Professional Use
- Assessment: Evaluate the hair's condition to determine if it truly requires such a strong treatment.
- Preparation: Make sure the hair is clean before applying the treatment to ensure maximum absorption.
- Application: Apply carefully, ensuring even distribution. Avoid the scalp as much as possible to prevent irritation.
- Monitoring: Carefully monitor the drying process, as the hardening phase is crucial. Use a hooded dryer or blow dryer, and avoid manipulating the hair while it hardens.
- Follow-Up Care: Always follow with the balancing moisturizer to restore hydration and elasticity. Advise clients on proper aftercare and maintenance.
Best Practices
1. Infrequent Use: Limit use to every 4-6 weeks and only when necessary. STOP WHEN HAIR SHAFT IS HEALED OR LONG TERM DAMAGE WILL BE EVEN WORSE.
2. Client Education: Inform clients about the strength of the product and the importance of not overusing it.
3. Customization: Tailor the treatment based on individual hair needs, possibly combining with other less intensive treatments for ongoing care.
4. Aftercare: Recommend clients use gentle, protein-free products between treatments to maintain hair health without overloading on protein.
Using ApHogee with caution and expertise ensures it delivers the best results without compromising hair health.
Overuse of Protein Treatments
Overusing protein treatments like ApHogee can lead to a condition known as protein overload. Hair requires a balance of protein and moisture to stay healthy. When this balance is disrupted by an excess of protein, several negative effects can occur:
1. Brittleness: Excess protein makes the hair stiff and less flexible, leading to increased breakage.
2. Dryness: Protein overload can strip the hair of moisture, resulting in dry, dull hair.
3. Breakage: Overly stiff hair is more prone to snapping, leading to breakage and split ends.
4. Loss of Elasticity: Hair loses its natural elasticity, making it less resilient to styling and environmental factors.
Hair Shedding and Weathering
Hair Shedding: It's normal to lose about 50-100 hairs per day as part of the natural hair growth cycle. However, excessive shedding can occur due to several factors:
- Stress: Physical or emotional stress can push hair follicles into the shedding phase.
- Nutritional Deficiencies: Lack of essential vitamins and minerals can weaken hair.
- Hormonal Changes: Conditions like pregnancy, menopause, or thyroid issues can impact hair growth.
- Medical Conditions: Conditions like alopecia or scalp infections can lead to increased shedding.
Hair Weathering: This refers to the cumulative damage hair undergoes over time due to environmental exposure and routine grooming practices:
- UV Radiation: Prolonged sun exposure can weaken hair, causing it to become dry and brittle.
- Pollution: Environmental pollutants can build up on the hair, weakening its structure.
- Mechanical Damage: Frequent brushing, combing, and styling can cause physical wear and tear.
- Heat Styling: Regular use of heat tools like blow dryers, curling irons, and straighteners can degrade hair proteins.
- Chemical Treatments: Repeated coloring, perming, or relaxing can weaken hair bonds and lead to damage.
Watch the full lecture!
Long-Term Use and Hair Destruction
Even with products designed to strengthen and protect hair, long-term use without proper care and balance can eventually lead to hair destruction. Here’s how:
1. Cumulative Damage: Continuous exposure to proteins, chemicals, and heat without adequate moisture and repair can cause cumulative damage. Hair may initially appear strong and healthy but can slowly become weakened and brittle over time.
2. Imbalance: Over-reliance on protein treatments can disrupt the natural protein-moisture balance, leading to brittle and dry hair.
3. Build-Up: Frequent use of strong treatments can cause build-up on the hair shaft, making hair appear dull and heavy while also preventing other beneficial treatments from penetrating effectively.
4. Age and Wear*l: Hair that has been exposed to decades of styling, treatments, and environmental factors may eventually lose its ability to recover, becoming more susceptible to damage and breakage.
Preventing Long-Term Damage
1. Balanced Treatments: Alternate protein treatments with moisturizing treatments to maintain a healthy balance.
2. Gentle Care: Use gentle, sulfate-free shampoos and conditioners that nourish the hair without stripping it of natural oils.
3. Protective Styling: Minimize the use of heat and harsh chemicals. When using heat tools, always apply a heat protectant.
4. Regular Trims: Regular trims help prevent split ends from traveling up the hair shaft and causing more damage.
5. Healthy Diet: Ensure a balanced diet rich in vitamins and minerals essential for hair health.
Thank you for posting this Cyn! Thank you so much for all that you do!